We had spent the usual time last evening comparing different weather forecasts, as now that the engine was fixed, we were able to leave Riposto. As ever there were some conflicting views about what the weather would be like, but we are becoming more convinced by a couple of the forecasts and these indicated that all would be well. The wind would start at nothing and build as the day went on, but stay comfortably within levels we would be happy with. With the decision taken to leave, we knew that we wanted to get away promptly and maintain a good speed during the day. I was queueing outside the office when it was due to open at 8:30. The lady arrived a few minutes later, and with the formalities taken care of, we were on our way.
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| Our last views of Mt Etna as we left the vicinity |
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| Steam and gasses visible coming from the summit craters |
The first hour or so were spent on the engine, but gradually the wind started to arrive. We put the sails up and tested whether there was enough wind to sail, which there was, but not at the 6+ knots that we were targeting. We motor sailed a bit, gradually reducing the level of engine assistance while we maintained our speed. As the wind got stronger, we were able to stop the engine and enjoy the peace of hearing just the wind and the waves.
Initially we were only just maintaining our speed, but the wind strengthened a little and all of a sudden we were making more the 6.5 knots over the ground, being pushed along by a helpful current. One of the useful impacts you experience while you are sailing towards the wind, is that the faster you go, the stronger the wind feels and so you can go faster again. With the speed now consistently in the 7+ knot area, we commented that it was the sort of time we would be visited by dolphins, and sure enough, about half an hour later, we had a pod of 6 - 10 playing in our bow wave. We were using the autopilot at the time so were going straighter than would be the case if we were hand steering. This and the speed made a very consistent underwater play zone for them, and they must have been with us for 15 - 20 minutes. A joyous experience as ever, and then, without saying goodbye they were gone.
The wind built again, and the speed went up with it. We were approaching the mouth of the Gulf of Augusta. This area is described in our guidebook as a "petro-chemical nightmare", and we could see a tanker heading for the port on our AIS. This gives a constant estimation of how near you will pass and when, if you both maintain the same speed and direction. We were aware that the faster we went, the larger the separation, so we were very keen to keep our speed up. The wind was beyond what we would use the autopilot for, and so I spent a very happy hour, steering the boat at between 8.5 and 9.5 knots while we crossed ahead of the tanker. Once we had crossed their intended line we were able to relax a bit and the wind moderated slightly.
We arrived and docked in Siracusa (Syracuse) and plan to stay for a few days. Friends have recommended the city and there is plenty to see.
Miles Today - 43
Miles 2022 - 301
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