11 & 12 October 2022 – Biograd & Zut

Tuesday was pretty uneventful, just the usual round of chores to prepare for being away from port again, buying food and cleaning etc.

Wednesday, the weather was very calm, and we prepared to set off again. There was a final trip to the local market for perishable food, fruit and veg, bread, meat and fish.  The fish stalls had some fish that we hadn’t seen before, silver, with yellow parallel stripes along their sides. We bought them and had them for dinner, delicious.

We eased out of the marina towards midday, resigned to motoring all day.  In the event, we had various entertainments en route.  First the inevitable ducking and diving to avoid other boats.  We saw a small but rather elegant cruise ship coming up the channel from the south.  This route must be too shallow for the bigger ships as we have never seen them using this channel before.

A rather attractive olive grove on a headland

We were overtaken by a fast moving motor boat, who then stopped at one of the buoys.  We later came to realise that this must be the local equivalent of Trinity House, the organisation that maintains all of the navigational marks in the UK. In previous year’s blogs, we have commented on the standards of buoyage in the countries that we have visited, but are aware that we have not done so recently. This must be an indication of the high standards of buoyage that we have experienced in both Croatia and Italy. Anyway, the boat moved on and then stopped at the next mark, presumably to check that all was well there.  While watching him, we spotted a small pod of dolphins nearby, we have seen this sort of thing most days recently.

Further on, we were treated again to the sight of one of the fire control aircraft, doing exercises to pick and then dump water. This one came round two or three times and performed the same operation. Fortunately we were close enough to get pictures, but not close enough to get the water dropped on us (from what we have seen, they are very careful to not do any part of the drill near to boats).




We headed on to the island of Zut, where there is a large bay with a marina and a couple of restaurants with quays. There are also buoys associated with each of these. We made for the marina’s buoy field and managed to make fast to one, although these were not the easiest, due to their shape. Later the marinaro came round for the fees.  We were astounded at the price, far more than we have paid recently. He said that there was no low season price, which we thought might explain why there were so few boats in the marina or the buoy field.  He sympathised with our view and  kindly told us where we could anchor, very close by, in a sheltered spot, for which we wouldn’t have to pay.  We thanked him profusely and moved where he had indicated. I think I understand why the island is so expensive, there is no mains electricity supply and presumably no other infrastructure to support the community. Everything has to be brought in and taken away by boat, and the restaurants rely on generators to keep them going.  Anyway, we settled down for a peaceful night at anchor.

Our hopes for this were rather shattered while our dinner was cooking. One of the charter boats at a nearby buoy, started to make music(?). They were a load of young lads, and one had an accordion and one something that sounded like a tuba (who takes a tuba or an accordion on a sailing trip?). We then had a sort of beer hall oompah, oompah repetitive tune, while the others chanted along with it. Not really to our taste, and we didn't have lederhosen to put on. There was a lull at around the time we ate, which was appreciated, but then it started up again.  Oh well, it takes all sorts.....

Next year I shall be looking for the boat with the most bizarre name, this is an early contender

Miles Today - 11

Miles 2022 – 1399

Steve (and Tricia)

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